What Experts Say About Face Toners and if You Actually Need to Use One

You likely know the basics of a solid skincare routine: cleanser, SPF, and moisturizer. However, you're probably also well aware that there are far more products beyond that bare-bones trio. There are serums, eye creams, spot treatments, oils, face masks, mists, and of course, toners. While we could wax poetic about all of these products, it's toners that often raise the question of whether or not they're really necessary.

If you grew up observing your parents using toner, you may be shuddering at the thought of following in their footsteps. The toners of yesteryear were incredibly astringent and drying, but today's formulas are much more hydrating and are packed with healthy skincare ingredients that go beyond deep-cleaning your pores. Essentially, you just need to find the right formula for your skin type and goals.

To best understand what toners are, what they do, if you need one, and what to look for while shopping for one, we tapped three dermatologists and a product development expert. Below, learn what they have to say so you can decide whether or not a face toner is right for you.

What Is Face Toner?

A toner is a thin, water-like formula meant to be used in between your face wash and other skincare steps to "prime" the skin for skincare. Previously, toners were used to remove excess oil from the face, but modern toners serve a variety of purposes. "Traditionally, toners were used to remove excess oil from the skin and were especially useful for people who had acne," says dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, MD. "Those products contain high concentrations of alcohol and, therefore, were drying. Today's toners contain a variety of soothing, brightening, and anti-aging ingredients."

New York-based cosmetic dermatologist Sejal Shah agrees, adding that the new formulations of toners are completely different from their traditional counterparts. "Traditionally, a toner's function was to completely cleanse the skin, and often they were formulated to be very astringent to remove any traces of oil and debris," she explains. "While the newer generation of toners may still remove traces of debris, they're really meant to nourish and replenish the skin after cleansing and act as a primer for the rest of your skincare products."

What Are the Benefits of Face Toner?

We often hear that toners help balance the pH of the skin post-cleansing, but it turns out that that's not the only potential benefit.

• Removes Impurities: "Toner removes oil and traces of dirt, bacteria, and makeup," says board-certified dermatologist Debra Jaliman. "It also removes the dust, pollution, and impurities that can still be lingering after washing with a cleanser."
• Replenishes the Skin: Modern toners are often used to nourish the skin with moisturizing, brightening, or exfoliating ingredients after cleansing. The function depends on the toner—and today, all toners have different functions.

Do You Need to Use a Face Toner?

Toner is not necessary in a skincare routine—in fact, most people achieve the benefits of a toner through skincare products/steps they already have in their routine. If you're using an exfoliating toner, the same results can be achieved with a retinoid or exfoliating serum with glycolic acid. If you're using a hydrating toner, you could achieve the same benefits with a hyaluronic acid serum. And if you're using a brightening toner, you can usually get the same results from a vitamin C serum.

If you prefer to use toner, that's totally fine; almost anyone can use a basic, gentle, hydrating or moisturizing toner in addition to their normal routine. You can also use a toner that's specific to your skin concerns as opposed to a targeted serum. But beware, you can run into issues if your toner contains active ingredients that are already in other products you use, which can lead to irritation. So, if you already have a pretty targeted routine, but want to implement a toner, too, it would be wise to use a gentle, hydrating one.

Is Face Toner Suitable for All Skin Types?

It depends on your skin type and the type of toner used. As with any new skincare product, you'll want to be mindful when adding toner to your morning and/or evening beauty routine. "Ensure that the toner is not overly drying or irritating your skin," says Dr. Shah. Also, when it comes to sensitive areas of the face (think: near the eyes or creases of nose), be wary of not overdoing it. And always, always watch out for alcohol on the ingredient label. Be sure to use a toner that is appropriate for your skin type and stay away from alcohol in toners since they tend to dry out skin.

That said, modern toners are often gentler and more adaptable to your skin's individual needs. Tammy Yaiser, vice president of product development at Algenist gives us the lowdown on the shift in ingredients. "Many toners of today skip the alcohol and combine advanced anti-aging ingredients with gentle, natural ingredients and botanicals that purify and balance the skin, provide hydration, treat, and soothe all at once," she explains.

How Do You Apply Toner?

According to Yaiser, toner is best used as your first step after cleansing, as she says it helps rid the skin of any residual impurities and leaves the skin refreshed and perfectly prepped for your subsequent skincare routine. Any creams, serums, or treatments applied post-toning might penetrate deeper and reap its full potential.

Toner is best applied by saturating a cotton round (ideally a reusable cotton round) with the formula and gently blotting the skin. Many toners are also available in spray form, which can help minimize waste (bonus points) and make for convenient, easy application.

How Often Should You Use Face Toner?

You shouldn't be afraid to make toner a permanent part of your routine, but it may take some trial and error. Dr. Shah explains, "The time and consistency of how often you use toner really depend on your skin type, skin concerns, and ingredients in the toner." She recommends using toners with active ingredients two to three times per week until you work up a tolerance to daily use. On the other hand, she says that "hydrating, calming, and soothing toners can generally be used twice a day."

Toner vs. Essence

You may be wondering what the difference is between toner and essence. Simply put, a toner is used more for cleansing and hydrating the skin and protecting it from pollutants, whereas essence is for accelerating skin cell turnover, leaving behind smoother, firmer skin. Essence can also be used as a primer, which helps to enhance the effects of beauty products you apply afterward (oils, serums, moisturizers).

What Ingredients Should You Look For in Toners?

What you look for in your toner is dependent on your skin type and what you want to achieve. However, some of the most popular ingredients found in toners are:

• Witch Hazel: This type of astringent contains a ton of anti-inflammatory and anti-fungal properties, and helps remove lingering makeup and grime from the skin post-cleanser. We like the Unscented Facial Toner from Thayers ($11) as it's gentle on the skin and is formulated with aloe vera for added soothing effects.
• Hyaluronic Acid: Replenish skin's hydration levels while purifying it of built-up debris by finding a formula with HA. Dr. Shah recommends Fresh's Rose & Hyaluronic Acid Deep Hydration Toner ($48) as it hydrates and tones the skin, addressing dryness, dullness, and uneven skin texture.
• Salicylic Acid: Loved for its dead skin-sloughing properties, Dr. Shah says that using a salicylic acid-based toner is great for acne-prone skin. We recommend First Aid Beauty's Oil-Minimizing Toner with Salicylic Acid ($24) as it tackles excess oil, keeps acne at bay, and controls shine. Plus, it's alcohol-free so it's a safe option for those with more sensitive skin.
• Honey Extract: We know that honey is often used in DIY skin care for its emulsifying and moisturizing properties, so it's a great pick for those with dry skin. Dr. Jaliman recommends using Lancôme's Tonique Confort Hydrating Toner ($62) which is chock-full of ultra-hydrating ingredients like glycerin, honey, and hyaluronic acid.
• Pitera: Dr. Zeichner recommends SKII's massively popular Facial Treatment ($80) because of the "active ingredient, pitera," which is meant to help revive your overall complexion for an even, radiant look.
• Alpha-Hydroxy Acids: Also known as AHAs, these acids help speed up skin cell turnover to keep skin looking smooth and bright. Tatcha's Texture Tonic ($62) clarifies skin without stripping it of its healthy moisture levels, leaving it looking clear and feeling soft.

The Takeaway

The drying, alcohol-heavy formulas we typically associate with toners have been phased out in favor of nourishing formulas, and formulas with varying active ingredients. And while toners certainly aren't a necessary step in a skincare routine, almost anyone can add a gentle, hydrating toner to their routine if they prefer. With toners containing active ingredients like exfoliants and vitamin C, make sure you aren't also using other serums or products that contain these ingredients, as doubling-up can lead to irritation.